What you put down between the edging is also a matter of choice. You can also make the path as wide as you like: 3 to 4 feet is standard. Just be sure the gravel stops about ½ inch short of the edging’s top-which should be flush with surrounding plant beds and lawn-or the gravel will spill over. But you can also use pressure-treated wood, cedar, bricks, cobblestones, or even plastic edging. Galvanized steel is a durable and traditional choice and also malleable enough for curves. The gravel, being so movable, needs an edge to contain it. A lining of landscape fabric over the base will keep weeds from growing up through the path. But in most areas, especially where the soil is sandy, you’ll need to create a base of tamped-down stone pack, which is a mix of ¾-inch stones and stone dust. In zones with hard clay, that can be the soil itself. Still, to give the path structure and stability, it must have a compact base. “And you don’t have to worry about cutting the stones.” “You can make a twisty, curvy, organic walk,” says Roger Cook, This Old House landscape contractor. Not only that, a gravel path can take on many shapes. ![]() Because the tiny stones move fluidly, winter’s freezes and thaws won’t heave and crack the surface in the same way they would with a rigid material like stones or pavers. You only have to dig down a few inches to make room for the pebbles-even in cold-weather climates. ![]() Gravel paths are easy to construct because they aren’t set very deep.
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